The entire hood should be reattached to the car at this point. Have a friend help, and take your time to make sure
both sides of the hood align properly with the fenders.

Now we’re going to get the whole system activated. If wire routing and switch installation intimidate you, you’re
in for a treat here. This is a pretty simple set-up. Just follow along.

Attach the air cleaner intake valve relay assembly to the firewall using a #10 self-tapping screw. This unit sends
a “hot” signal from the HYPERLINK "http://viglink.pgpartner.com/mrdr.php?url=http%3A%2F%2Fviglink.pgpartner.com%2Fsearch_attrib.php%2Fform_keyword=wiring%2Bharness&mt=~~~~~~~~n~~~"wiring harness to the cowl induction solenoid.

There’s a black colored “plug” located in the firewall just behind the engine’s HYPERLINK "http://www.bizrate.com/search__af_assettype_id--4__af_creative_id--3__af_id--foo__af_placement_id--bar__keyword--valve+cover__rf--af1.html"valve cover. Pop it open and insert
the pink and brown colored leads from the wiring harness, as well as the braided section of wire. The pink and
brown leads will feed down and attach to the air control valve solenoid switch, which we will install at the HYPERLINK "http://motors.shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=gas+pedal"gas
pedal. The braided section of the wiring harness will also feed down and attach to the car’s existing HYPERLINK "http://viglink.pgpartner.com/mrdr.php?url=http%3A%2F%2Fviglink.pgpartner.com%2Fsearch_attrib.php%2Fform_keyword=wiring%2Bharness&mt=~~~~~~~~n~~~"wiring
harness. At the HYPERLINK "http://motors.shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=gas+pedal"gas pedal, you will need to remove the existing retaining plate.

Attach the air control valve solenoid switch to its bracket using the supplied screw. Now fit the bracket to the
existing holes where you removed the retaining plate before. The protruding post on the side of the solenoid
switch will press against the gas pedal linkage upon HYPERLINK "http://www.elcaminocentral.com/showthread.php?t=32488" full throttle acceleration, actuating the vacuum and opening
the HYPERLINK "http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?toolid=10029&campid=CAMPAIGNID&customid=CUSTOMID&catId=6000&type=2&ext=380134133471&item=380134133471"cowl hood door.

Attach the pink and brown wire leads to the terminals on the solenoid switch (the fitting shape will be obvious),
and attach the braided section to the existing wiring harness under your dash. This last connection will provide
power to the entire cowl induction system.

Back in the engine compartment, plug the 2 remaining short wires into the air cleaner intake valve relay assembly
(again, the fitting shape will be obvious). Now route the tan colored wire (that attaches to the electric solenoid
we installed at the beginning of this project) through the wiring sheath on the firewall to protect it.

You’ll need to place the cowl induction spacer assembly on top of the carburetor. This ring simply sits atop of the
carb, and allows the air cleaner to sit up a little higher, into the cowl hood.

Attach the cowl induction air cleaner flange and seal kit (part#KC1500 black lid) or (part#KC1501 chrome lid).

Now you’ll have to fit a 1/4” rubber hose (not included in kit, but available from any auto parts supply store) to
the vacuum actuator. Then route the hose to fit the other end to the vacuum port located on the HYPERLINK "http://www.bizrate.com/search__af_assettype_id--4__af_creative_id--3__af_id--foo__af_placement_id--bar__keyword--intake+manifold__rf--af1.html"intake manifold
just behind the carburetor. The vacuum port is standard on all Chevelles, as it is used for other vacuum operated
accessories.

Fire it up and grab a few shifts. Watching that cowl door open under full throttle makes it all worthwhile!


Additional
There is a total of five parts for the complete elec portion of the CI system:
Wire harness (repo, its an excellent harness)
Gas pedal switch
Bracket for gas pedal switch (with screws)
Relay (and screws)
Solenoid (and screw)
First thing to do is install the wire harness through the firewall. The firewall has 2 square holes, one for the
existing acclerator cable, and below that square hole is another square hole with a plug in it for the CI harness
(remove the plug, if you have pwr brakes, the brake booster hides these holes). The CI harness has a round
grommet to go into the square hole (I'm serious!) Feed the harness through the square hole (one pink, one tan
wire and then 2 pink wires with connectors) and push the round grommet into the square hole.
If your car HAS a turbo 400, you already have the second and third parts (switch and bracket). The harness for
the t-400 will have 2 pigtails at the switch, so you just plug the CI harness into those 2 pigtails (it doesn't matter
which wire goes to which pigtail).
If your car DOES NOT HAVE a turbo 400, then you have to install the switch and bracket at the gas pedal. The
bracket for the switch REPLACES the existing pedal shaft retainer (held in place by two screws) so that the switch
can be installed. Then, plug the CI harness connectors to the terminals on the switch (2 pink wires with
connectors, doesn't matter which plug connects to which terminal). Next, the pink and tan wires connect over at
the fuse block. The pink wire connects to the IGN terminal and the tan wire just above it (the
connectors/terminals are designed so that the connectors can ONLY go one way, thus, you cannot connect them
wrong). The relay attaches to the firewall with screws and there is a double connector on the harness with
pink/tan wires which will ONLY connect one way to the relay. The other tan wire connects to the third terminal of
the relay and then goes up to the solenoid at the hood.